After developing the design, areas of the garden can be set out. The structure(s) - hard landscape - can be built and the planting areas - soft landscape - can be prepared and the plants added. Normally, the build is completed before planting occurs. Sometimes there are areas of planting which could be established ahead of other work. Especially if extra growing time is a consideration and/or construction is not imminent or not likely to affect planting areas.
Evolution - All Plants have developed particular survival characteristics depending on their native environment. Understanding some of this can help us create successful planting areas, satisfying a plant's natural environmental requirements, helping a final result look and feel right.
Plants with large leaves have often evolved to catch more light in a shady or restricted light situation. Their leaves are usually too delicate to survive in hot sun - unless they have an abundant supply of water. Plants with narrow leaves or needles may have reduced their leaf area over time to reduce transpiration of water in hot or windy environments. Plants with fleshy leaves conserve water in arid areas. Plants with enlarged underground roots can often complete their life cycle in a very short season. Plants with a downy cover on their leaves or stems create their own shade and protection. Vigorous trees and shrubs produce brittle branches and are often short-lived. Slower growing plants make dense wood and are usually long lived - given a suitable environment. Variegated leaves are usually caused by viruses. The reduced area of green causes leaves to photosynthesise less efficiently making them slower growing. Any part of the plant which reverts to plain green will be stronger growing and eventually smother the variegated shoots.
List priorities The most important factor is to decide on a series of priorities. Most plants can fulfil several criteria - whether they are to suit the soil, style, environment, colour theme or maintenance requirement. No plant will fit all of them. One plant may be more suitable than another depending on how priorities are listed. Some priorities will be site driven, others style driven. It may be necessary to choose a plant less than a metre high, which survives in dry shade, is evergreen and low maintenance but not too vigorous. This would result in a different choice to one which is vigorous, but has the other characteristics. For example, Sarcococca humilis would fit the first criteria, Vinca major variegata would fit the second. In addition, the Sarcoccocca would also give winter fragrance, the Vinca would add a variegated leaf.
Contemporary A contemporary style garden uses a very restricted palette of plant varieties. Massed groups of plants of contrasting texture and outline shape, for example - grasses, perennials and bold rounded shrubs. Strong leaf shapes. Less emphasis on flower. Minimalist and uncluttered.
A formal garden is often given an edging off clipped shrubs - box - Buxus sempervirens or the smaller Buxus suffruticosa are two species of many Buxus varieties used. Topiary is often included. Various evergreen shrubs can be clipped into formal shapes to create accents. Holly, bay (Laurus nobilis), box (Buxus varieties), Viburnums, rosemary (Rosmarinus) and various conifers to name a few. Other plants are chosen to fit given themes, for example, flower colour or season. A pair of plants may flank an entrance or repeat along a path to create further rythym and pattern. Informal Lower in maintenance, a mixed planting creates an informal garden. Plant shapes with softer outlines contrast with each other to create an elegant look. Strong seasonal highlights can be devised and included. Winter structure is important. All types of plants can be included, more impact is gained if plants are used in groups. Cottage Cottage gardens are less structured. Single plants seed themselves wherever they fall. Soft in outline, edible plants can be mixed in with ornamental plants. Cottage gardens can be charming. Maintenance is not as low as may be expected. Usually not much structure in winter.
Classic & Period gardens A period theme can be followed to create a look which fits into a historical context. Or, elements can be taken from the past to give specific accents to a modern garden.
Tropical Large leaf plants create drama and a tropical theme. Some varieties of tree fern, palm and other exotics are fairly hardy given a sheltered spot in some parts of the UK. This effect needs to be carefully used, it can easily look contrived and unnatural. It can work extemely well in a shady London garden where lighting can add another attractive element.
Woodland An overhead canopy of trees restricts natural light and available water as well as competition in the soil for root space. Some plants have evolved specifically in this environment. Good choices are plants which flower early in spring before the leaf canopy grows - eg Hellebores, spring flowering bulbs. Some plants with a large leaf area and most climbers have evolved to make the most use of available light. Some ground cover plants are vigorous in order to survive in an aggressive environment.
Fragrance Plants which have evolved to attract specific insects during the day or night to help with pollination. Fragrance can be used to enhance an outdoor environment. Most fragrant plants (except Roses) do not have a strong flower colour. Most are white, mauve or yellow.
Not an exhaustive list
Architectural Shape: Fastigiate, columnar, round headed, weeping, dynamic, spreading, tabular, ground-hugging.
Leaf colour: Greens, golden/yellow, red/purple, silver/grey.
Leaf shape: Large, small, needles, bold, finely cut, spikey, autumn colouring.
Leaf texture: thick, leathery, papery, shiny, smooth, dull, pleated, crinkly, toothed, prickly, woolly.
Other considerations: Aromatic, edible, medicinal, sound of leaves moving, dense growth filtering noise, flower arranging.
Season: Evergreen deciduous.
Stem shape: Corkscrew, angular or long and straight.
Stem texture: Smooth, shiny, corky, patchy, coloured.
Flowering: Colour, longevity, abundance, size, fragrance, resistance to weather conditions, ability to flower in shade or part shade. Ornamental quality of seed heads.
Fruit/berry colour, longevity, abundance, size, food for birds, edible or medicinal crop.
Growth habit: Vigorous; moderate; slow growing; Vigorous plants may be chosen to create a privacy screen quickly but will need more frequent cutting once the screen is established than slower growing plants. Vigorous plants can be useful for difficult areas where other plants might struggle to survive. In fertile, open areas, vigorous plants can be a nuisance as they may swamp and destroy slower growing plants. However, they can be useful in low maintenance areas where simplicity is the priority.
Sites: Dry sun, dry shade, moist shade, swampy, exposed to wind inland, exposed to coastal wind (salt-laden), industrial or polluted areas.
Soils: Chalky (alkaline), acid (lime-free), clay (very fine particles, often badly drained, slow to warm in spring - fertile if improved), sandy (coarse, gritty, fast draining; quickly warms in spring, often poor fertility). Loam consists of roughly equal parts of sand, silt and clay. Amongst the most fertile type of soil.
Maintenance: Speed of growth, staking requirements, frequency of replanting, pruning, feeding and trimming or tidying up and dead-heading affect maintenance levels.
Toughness: Some plants have evolved to be resistant to attack by animals. Spines; hairs; poison; aromatic qualities may be off-putting to certain animals. However very hungry rabbits for example, will eat almost anything. There are lists of plants which are less likely to be eaten than others.
Although it might seem obvious, a short description of various types of plant follows:
Flowering period
Bulb name
Common name
Jan/March
Galanthus elwesii-early snowdrop- white (10-20cm)
Snowdrop
Jan/March
Crocus biflorus (alexandri) violet blue (5-8cm)
Crocus
Feb
Crocus tommasinianus Whitewell Purple (10cm)
Crocus
Feb/March
Galanthus nivalis (Single Snowdrop)- white (10-15cm)
Snowdrop
Feb/March
Narcissus- February Gold- yellow (25-30cm)
Daffodil
March/April
Chionodoxa luciliae - Cambridge blue (10-15cm)
March/April
Chionodoxa sardensis- Gentian blue (10-15cm)
March/April
Ipheion uniflorum - lilac blue (10-15cm)
March/April
Scilla siberica- bright blue (10-15cm)
Scilla
March/April
Scilla sibirica Spring Beauty- dark blue (15cm)
Scilla
March/April
Leucojum vernum- white tipped with green (15-20cm)
Spring snowflake
March/April
Narcissus- Jonquilla Collection- fragrant (20-25cm)
March/April
Narcissus St. Patricks Day -Lemon, pale lemon cup (35-40cm)
Daffodil
April
Tulip Purissima- white (45 cm)
Tulip- Fosteriana
April
Narcissus- Mount Hood- ivory white (35-40cm)
Daffodil
April/May
Tulip White Dream- white (50 cm)
Tulip- Triumph-late
April/May
Leucojum aestivum- white with green tips (30-40 cm)
Summer snowflake
May
Narcissus- poeticus recurvus (35-40cm)
Old Pheasant's eye
May
Tulip Shirley- white, purple edge (50 cm)
Tulip- single late
May
Tulip Maureen- white (70cm)
Tulip- single late
May/Jun
Allium karataviense- light purple-pink (15-20cm)
Ornamental onion
Mid May
Tulip Spring Green- white feathered green (50 cm)
Tulip- Viridiflora
May/Jun
Nectoscordum siculium- greenish white (90cm)
Ornamental onion
Jun
Eremurus bungei- yellow (90-120cm)
Foxtail lily
Jun
Eremurus himalaicus- white (125-175cm)
Foxtail lily
Jun
Allium christophii-star shaped silver lilac (40-50cm)
Ornamental onion
Jun
Allium schubertii- lilac pink (40-60 cm)
Ornamental onion
Jun
Allium hollandicum (aflatunense)-lilac purple(70/90cm)
Ornamental onion
Jun
Allium Gladiator-lilac purple (120/150 cm)
Ornamental onion
July
Lilium regale- white inside, purple outside (150cm)
Regal lily
Jul/Sep
Zantedeschia aethiopica (plant 6" deep)white (60-120cm)
Arum lily
Aug/Sep
Leucojum autumnale- pure white & pink (15cm)
Autumn snowflake
Sep
Colchicum byzantinum- bright mauve (10-20cm)
Colchicum
Sep/Oct
Crocus speciosus- violet blue (12-15cm)
Autumn crocus
Sep/oct
Crocus ochroleucus- creamy white (6-8cm)
Autumn crocus
Sep/Oct
Nerine bowdenii- pale pink (60 cm)
Dec/Jan
Crocus laevigatus Fontenayi-soft ageratum blue (6-8cm)
Autumn crocus
Traditionally in the U.K., planting of trees and shrubs takes place during their dormant season. Field grown, bare rooted or "root-balled" plants are "lifted" in late autumn for planting during the winter. Now, a vast number of plants are plants grown in containers and sold throughout the year. Container grown plants enable planting to be undertaken any time with little risk of failure - as long as the needs of the plants are met. Never plant when the ground is frozen, when it's waterlogged or on a scorchingly hot day. Otherwise, plant with knowledge that the most important requirement by far is giving water - deeply and frequently - especially during the first growing season.
This is by far the most important factor in the whole procedure. New plants, when newly planted, have sufficient roots to sustain their top growth. But, they have been grown in a controlled environment and often been given water on a daily basis. These new plants now need to develop new roots to spread out and tap the moisture held in a larger volume of soil. Until that happens, the only moisture available to the plant is that held immediately around it's roots. Most transplant failures can be traced back to a critical water shortage after planting. Automatic irrigation or watering from a hosepipe are equally satisfactory. The first has a higher capital outlay, the second a higher maintenance requirement. However it is applied, it is essential to get water into the root-ball - not only for it to survive, but also to grow. Establishment of roots happens first, followed by new top growth. Transplanting during the dormant season reduces the need to irrigate sigificantly. But, a dry period of only two or three weeks, at the beginning of the subsequent growing season often proves fatal unless irrigation is applied. The risk is not just a matter of killing the plant but almost as bad, is that growth can be thrown into check whereby extension growth both above and below ground can almost stop for a period of years.