We hope that by helping you understand the basic nature of plants and thier needs, it will "empower" you to make decisions about the maintenance needs and pruning of the individual plants in your garden, and any that you might want to add in the future.
Plants (like people) flourish to varying degrees depending on their environment. Generally, they will survive - or try to - whatever their situation, once they are established in a permanent setting. Most plants have extra "survival devices" for more extreme circumstances. Some go dormant (e.g. losing their leaves) in various circumstances. Some may even sacrifice entire branches (die-back) in order to survive. It may be due to lack of water; extreme weather or being moved. Mediterranean plants are dormant in the hottest part of summer. Many trees and shrubs are dormant during our colder weather. Grass turns brown in drought but usually recovers after rain. Most perennials (not all) lose their "aerial parts" i.e. above ground growth when frosty weather arrives, and rejuvenate themselves in spring from their living root stock. From this we can see that some plants, which look dead at certain times of year - may not be.
Except for moving around by self-seeding, plants,
are stuck in the positions they germinate or where
we plant them. So, it makes sense that they have
evolved techniques to survive whatever seasonal
changes they have to cope with. Understanding the
basic nature of plants and their needs will help
in the maintenance of a garden, firstly to help
understand and therefore provide the nearest environment
any plant has evolved to survive within. For example,
lavender has evolved to withstand a hot dry environment.
It's leaves have reduced their surface area - to
reduce water transpiration. Their colour and texture
also help reflect light and protect the leaf. If
lavender is planted in wet shade - it will either
die or look straggly and unhappy. Given a hot, well -drained, sunny position it will nearly always thrive. When planting a complete garden, not all the plants will take. There are nearly always a few casualties, no matter how diligent the after-care. So, here are a few pruning and maintenance guidelines.
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This might be a bit controversial - but my advice is to work with the garden and it's inhabitants wherever possible. Most plants will be less likely to succumb to disease if they are well looked after, properly fed and watered; dead wood taken out regularly so that light and air can circulate easily and any diseases in the wood are removed. Problems like honey fungus often remain in the soil whatever you do. Vigorous young plants are less affected than old, tired specimens. There are some plants which are unlikely to be attacked by it - the Royal Horticultural Society produce a list. If something dies, maybe it was past it's best, or it's time for a change. More importantly, the garden is a place to be enjoyed. Try not to let it become a war between you and nature's variety. Just concentrate instead on giving your plants adequate water, nutrients, light and air and only take action to remove things if you have a really serious problem. If your garden is giving you major headaches because things are not flourishing, either look at the general environment and grow plants which have naturally adapted to suit the situation you have, or the nearest to it; or improve the environment so that your choice of plants is less limited. This could mean soil which is very wet or dry; deep shade or very hot dry spots, acid or alkaline conditions etc. A little research to find suitable plants is worth the time. Notcutts have very useful lists in the back of their plant catalogue, which may help.
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Trim by cutting away superfluous branches, etc.
The general aim is to ensure a healthy, sound, productive and pleasingly shaped plant. A little knowledge of how plants grow will help understanding the pruning of them.
Imagine the entire plant: top growth (the bit we can see) = roots (hidden bit below ground). When a plant's top growth is pruned, the ratio is changed root/top growth. If we take away some of the top growth, the plant sends it's energy into a smaller framework, and forces new growth from the dormant buds just underneath the place it has been cut - to redress the balance during the next growing season - given available light, water and nutrients. Employ this knowledge when cutting back plants and you can easily encourage young plants to grow in a way you can predict and understand.
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Why prune?
The management of plants as they mature is almost as vital as the layout of the initial planting scheme. By pruning, you are making the plant send it's energy into developing the parts you leave behind. Prune to:
Young plants need pruning and training with a skilled and aesthetic hand to bring about the best potential in each plant as it matures.
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How to prune
Hard pruning - promotes stronger re-growth. Cut back all of the growth down to new growing points at the woody base of the shrub. Many plants respond very well to this with improved shape and performance in the next growing season. (eg. Buddleia varieties, roses, dogwood (Cornus varieties). This is a good way to prune if the colour of new young shoots is important.
Pruning by one-third - Cutting out branches by completely removing them to the base of the plant. This encourages the plant to produce vigorous new shoots from the bottom. Take out one-third of oldest growth (which has flowered), dead, damaged and crossing branches reducing the bulk of plant. This is a good way to prune most border shrubs, do it immediately after flowering for plants which flower in spring (eg Forsythia) , leave pruning until winter has passed for summer flowering shrubs (Hydrangeas, Weigelia, Philadelphus). Not suitable for plants where an established framework is important (eg. horizontally spreading Viburnum varieties)
Light pruning - gentle shaping of plants - regularly cutting tips off with shears or a trimmer. This is a good way to prune hedging plants as it encourages multiple side shoots making a dense barrier.
Summer pruning - removal of spent stems and flower heads and remove growth which may be hazardous in winter. Generally light pruning.
Winter pruning - easier to prune when plants are dormant, leaves off (deciduous varieties), e.g. Wisteria, roses, vines.
Root pruning - controls the size of the plant. Normally undertaken for plants in containers - especially bonsai's. See also moving plants
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When to prune
Most shrubs are best pruned immediately after flowering
except late summer flowering shrubs - delay pruning
until late spring of the following year to avoid
frost damage of new shoots. Never prune evergreen
shrubs in winter (except Rhododendrons, laurel (Prunus
laurocerasus and P. lusitanica) and box (Buxus sempervirens).
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Plants not to prune: Generally, Acers, Magnolias, most slow growing plants.
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